Hong Kong is known for having one of the most beautiful harbor views in the world as well as world-class cuisine. Home to 61 Michelin star restaurants, including some of the cheapest anywhere, as well as family-owned eateries that have been making traditional Cantonese and Taiwanese cuisine for decades, we knew this was going to be our kind of town. To help burn off all the calories from eating, we were surprised to find out that Hong Kong offers a plethora of hiking opportunities as well as beautiful green spaces in the city for a post-meal stroll.
Yes, those are pink flamingos in the middle of Kowloon Park
We had 10 days in Hong Kong, and I was on a mission to sample unique local cuisine as well as find the best of my all-time favorites: Peking duck and Dim Sum. Having lived near DC and just a couple blocks from Boston’s Chinatown, we were fortunate to have already experienced high quality dim sum and Peking duck, but I was excited to get the authentic experience in China. Our week in Hong Kong was jam-packed with unbelievable food experiences and breathtaking views. To try to summarize all the excitement (but admittedly going off on a few tangents), I have compiled our best of the best lists – Top 3 Dining Experiences, Top 3 Must-Try Hong Kong Specialties, and Top 3 Activities for Awesome Views.
Top 3 Dining Experiences
#3 Spring Deer
Ever since I had my first Peking duck experience at Tao, the famous Asian fusion restaurant in NYC, I have been on the hunt for the best of the best Peking Duck. In DC, we were fortunate to discover a restaurant that is so popular that they sell over 1000 Peking ducks on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day and is one of President George Bush’s favorite restaurants.
Spring Deer has been family-owned for over 30 years. We met a really nice Danish man who was at the restaurant with his son and sitting at the table next to us. He had bought a whole bottle of Pinot Noir and had the waitress bring two glasses to share with us! He said that he had visited Spring Deer in the early 80’s and that it hadn’t changed a bit. Their famous duck was just as good as he remembered, and the ambiance was the same, an odd combination of white linen table cloths and servers in bow-ties that somehow managed to still resemble an Asian cafeteria with giant tables piled into a long, narrow banquet hall. The whole golden duck was rolled out on a cart and expertly carved before us.
The Peking duck was everything that I had been dreaming about all week. The duck meat was juicy and tender while the golden-brown skin was crispy with an almost bacon-like, melt-in-your-mouth quality. The soft, chewy pancake was the perfect textural compliment while the special hoison sauce, crisp cucumber, and scallions pulled it all together.
Peking duck is quite possibly one of my all-time favorite foods. Jimmy is not quite as infatuated with Peking Duck as I am, which is why this restaurant is in the #3 spot.
Jimmy’s honorable mention is Yak Lok, which makes a fantastic roasted goose served over a bed of rice.
#2 Din Tai Fung
Two words. Juicy dumplings. My Chinese co-workers introduced me to Xiao long bao, or juicy dumplings, when I was living in MD/DC. Unlike traditional dumplings, juicy dumplings have a hot broth inside. You have to gently poke a hole in the dumpling to let the juice out into your spoon/bowl.
They are delicious and fun. So, of course, we had to find the best juicy dumplings in Hong Kong. We were also on a mission for the best dim sum experience. We ended up doing dim sum three times in our 10 days in Hong Kong, and each restaurant was surprisingly different. Din Tai Fung tops the list because of their unbelievable juicy dumplings, but each restaurant gave us some favorite memories….time for a tangent.
At Lin Heung Tea house, we got the most authentic dim sum experience. For those who have never had dim sum, traditionally the Chinese women push around carts stacked high with bamboo trays full of delicious items such as shrimp dumplings, bbq pork steamed buns, or spring rolls. We were escorted to a table full of other Chinese patrons already chowing down (we may have been the only tourists in the restaurant). The place was a madhouse with everybody up wandering around, grabbing food off the carts, and chatting loudly.
We waited patiently for the ladies to come by our table, but they never did. Finally, a server signaled for us to get up and go directly to the carts. So we finally did but didn’t recognize a single item in the baskets.
No spring rolls or steam buns. Perhaps some chicken feet and a bunch of other unidentifiable meats. None of the ladies spoke English, and they looked at us like we were crazy when we asked to see what was in the baskets but then didn’t want anything. We finally managed to find some sticky rice stuffed with shredded pork and wrapped in bamboo leaves and got one for each of us plus, what I discovered later, was a bean curd roll stuffed with a mystery meat.
We were eating our rice happily until the server made fun of us. “Too much rice, you should have shared. Try something else”. We didn’t know how to explain that it was the only food we recognized! We ended up trying a few more dishes that were decent but ultimately left a bit disappointed. We think perhaps the selection was more limited because we were too close to the end of the lunch hour. I saw a couple people snag baskets with sweet buns in them right from under me, but when I pointed trying to ask for one, I got looked at like I was crazy. But, we surely got the chaotic dim sum experience complete with a waiter trying to “help” Jimmy carry a basket. Somehow, as the waiter tried to take the basket from Jimmy, the plate flew out of his hand, shattered on the floor, and spewed the contents all over his chair and the floor. Needless to say, we had to do dim sum again, and luckily had a recommendation for the Metropol restaurant just across the street from our hotel.
At the Metropol, the ladies did parade by our table, and we actually recognized everything. We were so excited to get a pork steam bun, a spring roll, and deep-fried pork glutinous rice balls that were absolutely delicious.
We were quite content with this dim sum; however, three of our favorite dim sum items were still missing: fried dumplings, juicy dumplings, and sweet buns. So that brings us to Din Tai Fung.
Din Tai Fung has been serving up dumplings since 1972 and were listed as a top 10 restaurant in the world by NY Times in 1993. In 2010, Din Tai Fung was the first Taiwanese restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star. This restaurant is a bit more sophisticated than the traditional dim sum style. Here, you actually order off a menu, and the dim sum is brought to your table when ready. So, it wasn’t “luck-of-the-draw” for what cart happened to pass by our table at the right time. We were able to order all 3 of our missing favorite dim sum items, and all were outstanding.
The juicy pork dumplings
The sweet taro-filled steam bun (taro is a purple potato that is often used in desserts in Asia)
We also got a rice cake with bean paste for dessert to try something new. Not too sweet, the “dessert” reminded Jimmy of a dinner dish his mom makes called Moro, red beans and rice. Not exactly what we would consider dessert but thought it made a great snack food.
We highly recommend Metropol for great food with a traditional dim sum experience, but we awarded Din Tai Fung our top spot for dim sum because of the exceptional juicy dumplings and excellent customer service in a relaxed atmosphere.
#1 Little Bao
Although experiencing traditional cuisine is always top of our list, in a vibrant and hip city like Hong Kong, we had to try out the modern cuisine as well to see what the locals are truly eating every day. A friend recommended Little Bao, and his description was perfect – a small hipster bao eatery.
The popular, tiny restaurant has limited seating, so we had to wait almost an hour to be seated. We got a spot at the bar that faced the chefs. Watching them prepare all the delicious food was fun and added to the experience.
They are most famous for their modern twist on the traditional bao, steam bun. Our favorite was the Szechuan fried chicken bao.
Little Bao reminded us of an upscale Asian version of UNC’s infamous Time Out with the chicken cheddar biscuit. We were in love!! We also give two thumbs up for their pork belly bao and the short-rib panfried dumplings.
So, our top restaurant pick goes to a fun, modern eatery instead of a traditional restaurant or even the fine dining Michelin star restaurants that we went to.
Top 3 Activities for Awesome Views
#3 Hike to Victoria Peak
One of our favorite activities in Hong Kong was hiking to the top of Victoria Peak. Although there is a tram ride for easy access, nothing beats the feeling of walking uphill through the beautiful terrain to earn the bird’s eye view of the city.
Once at the top, we also enjoyed a stroll through the Victoria Peak Garden.
A trip to Hong Kong is not complete without a hike to the top of Victoria Peak. With all the delicious food opportunities to indulge in while in this foodie heaven, partaking in one of the numerous hike options around Hong Kong is a must-do, and this one is a winner with the rewarding views at the top.
#2 Lantau Island
Lantau Island, a small island west of Hong Kong Island, is home to the Big Buddha and offers hiking opportunities and a chance to escape the big city. One of the highlights of visiting Lantau Island is the cable car ride up to the peak with breathtaking views of the island and surrounding waters. Unfortunately, the cable car ride was undergoing maintenance when we visited, so we had to take a bus. Otherwise, we probably would have rated this activity #1. We really should have done the hike, which is up thousands of stairs, to help burn off the calories from all the eating we had been doing. However, the bus tour added on a side-trip to a fishing village called Tai O. Although not quite the breathtaking aerial view of the island from the cable car, we really enjoyed getting a glimpse of life in a fishing village and got some unique “cultural” views.
Stilt houses were built on the narrow river channel with a bridge connecting both sides.
We were intrigued by all the dried fish products, a favorite food of the Chinese.
Who needs the view over the island landscape when you can come to the fishing village and see the amazing assortment of fish get turned into a staple of Chinese cuisine right before your eyes.
We didn’t try any of the dried fish products or the fresh cuttlefish being cooked in giant vats.
However, we did sample the town’s favorite snack, curry fish balls.
We actually weren’t huge fans of the curry fish balls, but we loved one of their traditional sweet treats, a sweet tea bun (a sesame peanut filling), and the Portuguese-inspired coconut tarts.
After the fishing village, the bus climbed up the mountain to the Big Buddha, formally known as Tian Tan Buddha. The pathway leading up to the Buddha was lined with statues of warriors that represent the Chinese zodiac signs. Jimmy and I can rarely pose together for pictures, so I found a buddy to join me for the shot with the warrior.
The giant, majestic Buddha on a mountain peak surrounded by forest was quite a stunning sight. Sitting 34m tall, the bronze Buddha faces north to look over the people of China and is a popular pilgrimage destination.
You have to climb 268 steps to get up-close to the Buddha, but the sweeping mountain views over the island and the Po Lin Monastery are worth it.
The six smaller statues surrounding the Big Buddha are also lovely. They are known as the “Offering of the Six Devas” and symbolize the six perfections required for enlightenment: generosity, morality, patience, zeal, meditation, and wisdom.
Our trip to Lantau Island was definitely a highlight of our time in Hong Kong. Whether you hike, take the cable car ride, or the bus trip to include the fishing village, gorgeous views await.
#1 Sunset Cruise on a Traditional Junk Boat
One of my fellow traveler/foodie friends told me that a sunset cruise on a traditional junk boat was one of her favorite activities in Hong Kong, and I must agree with her and put this activity as the #1 thing to do in Hong Kong for some incredible views.
Here is our fancy boat pulling in to pick us up:
As we relaxed on giant lounge chairs on the upper deck, we got to enjoy the stunning skyline view as the sun went down.
We received a complimentary glass of wine/beer to toast the sunset.
We thought the clouds were going to block any chance of a good sunset, but they ended up creating quite a magnificent one for us that evening.
As the tour ended, the night scene unfolded as the buildings began to light up with all kinds of colors and designs.
We were dropped off on the side of the harbor to be able to watch the nightly light show. A great way to end an evening sightseeing on the water.
Top 3 Must-Try Hong Kong Specialties
#3 Dao fu fa
Dao fu fa or silky tofu is a common snack eaten in Hong Kong. On a chilly day, we found warm silky tofu served with a hint of brown sugar and ginger to be a great comfort food.
For best quality, we picked a small shop called Kung Wo Dou Bun Chong that has been making traditional silky tofu for over 100 years. Although it appears simple, not everybody can get the perfectly smooth and silky texture like these guys can. You know theirs is one of the best when the place is so packed that they escort you upstairs to the overflow seating in the attic storage/breakroom – complete with a TV playing cartoons and tons of cardboard boxes surrounding us.
#2 Birds Nest Soup
I’d like to think that I’ve traveled enough and lived in large, diverse cities in the US that I should know the most popular food items around the world. I had heard of bird’s nest soup and seen it prominently advertised in Boston’s and Bangkok’s Chinatown. I thought it was just a fancy name for a Chinese noodle dish. Jimmy and I were enjoying an evening of fine dining at the Michelin star Cantonese restaurant Man Wah when we came upon the option on the menu. We had opted for the multi-course tasting menu to be able to try a wide selection of Cantonese specialties including sea cucumber and abalone (side note: ended up not being a huge fan of either. Definitely an acquired taste/texture).
The one choice we had was the soup selection. Jimmy opted for the mushroom, and I went for the bird’s nest soup. He gave me a bit of a sideways look. “You really want to eat a bird’s nest?” I told him to stop messing with me because it was just a silly name for a special noodle dish. “Whatever you say.” Hmmm… Do I believe him?
The bird’s nest soup was tasty although I’m not quite sure what all the hype is about. In the back of my head, I was a little concerned regarding what I was actually eating. Sure enough, I googled it the next day to discover that bird’s nest soup really is made out of the specialized nest of swallows and is considered a delicacy in China with special healing properties. Even better, technically, the nests are made up of the little birdies’ spit. Well, at least I was at a Michelin star restaurant when I had my first (and probably last) tasting of swallow spittle soup.
#1 Tong Yuen (glutinous rice balls)
Our favorite out of all the odd Hong Kong treats and delicacies was by far the glutinous rice balls filled with sesame paste.
We headed to a small dessert shop, Fook Yuen, tucked away down an alley and under a bridge near a subway stop that was touted online by many to be THE place for rice balls. Although we have never had rice balls to compare, we thought these were the most unique and tasty of the desserts we tried in Hong Kong. The rice ball skin was soft and thin, and with a small bite, the sweet, warm sesame paste oozed out and mingled with the delicate flavors of the sweet ginger soup. We also got a peanut paste rice ball that was pretty tasty as well and served in a sesame paste sauce instead of a clear broth.
None of the signs were in English, and no one in the shop spoke English. We were fortunate that I had followed a detailed blog post with pictures to find the shop. And then to order, I was able to point to the picture of what I wanted in the blog. Thankfully, we actually got exactly what we wanted. Another day, another adventure. I’m actually a little surprised how “normal” it is now for us to order random foods at restaurants and food stalls and often not even know what we are getting. Somehow we manage to communicate with people regardless of the language barrier. And almost always love the food.
So, there you have it…our list of favorite things to eat, see, and do in Hong Kong.
Leave a reply