Spring is in the air in Japan, and cherry blossoms are in full bloom. The Japanese are excited for hanami season. Celebrating the cherry blossoms and enjoying the spring weather has been such a huge part of the Japanese culture for centuries that there is actually a word for it. “Hanami” sums up the whole experience and literally means “viewing the cherry blossoms while enjoying food and drink with family and friends”.
We fell in love with Japan when we first visited seven years ago, and after living in Washington DC and experiencing cherry blossoms there, we knew we had to go to Japan again during the cherry blossom season to see where hanami originated. For those of you who don’t know, the cherry blossoms that line the Tidal Basin in DC were a gift from the Japanese. The Tidal Basin and monuments in DC surrounded by cherry blossoms is a spectacular site, but the area is small considering the entire country of Japan is covered in them. Not only are there multiple different species to create spectacular landscapes, but hundreds of cherry blossoms line city streets, parks, temples, and shrines with every city having their special “best hanami spots” and nighttime illumination events. The mountains and countryside are also covered in them.
During our first couple weeks in Tokyo, as we anxiously awaited peak bloom, we quickly learned the level of obsession that the Japanese have with the sakura (cherry blossom in Japanese). Cherry blossom decorations line the billboards and advertisements throughout the city. Everything comes in sakura flavor, and I had to eat and drink them all!
Ice cream
Mochi
Cream puffs
Pancakes
Waffles and tea (sakura matcha latte, to be exact)
Millefeuille
Sticky rice cakes
Sweet buns with a mochi swirl
Nama yatsuhashi (a traditional Kyoto triangular sweet with paste inside a chewy rice-based dough)
We spent an evening with one of the best cocktail masters in Tokyo at Bar High Five and got his signature sakura cocktail.
We also found two different sakura craft beers – a gose and an ale.
Strolling through Ueno park, a vendor was serving up sakura gin and tonics.
Obviously, I am in love with all things sakura.
Tokyo is slightly warmer than the rest of Japan, so we were fortunate to be staying here and able to experience hanami first in a big city. Cherry blossoms only last about a week, so timing can be quite tricky. The first weekend after the cherry blossoms started to open, we headed to Yoyogi park. The blossoms weren’t at full bloom yet, but that didn’t stop hundreds of people from partying on the grassy lawn underneath the trees. Huge groups of friends congregated on large tarps with impressive food spreads of various Japanese snacks and finger foods.
While strolling through the park, I noticed a group with a box of Krispy Kreme donuts. I laughed and pointed it out to Jimmy because I didn’t realize that Krispy Kreme was in Japan. The group overheard me, and as Japanese people are so thoughtful, they didn’t hesitate to offer us some of their donuts.
Along with all the food, lots of wine and sake were also being consumed. We were pumped when we found a food stand selling to-go sake in glass jars.
Perfect! Krispy Kreme donuts and some sake with a stroll through a lovely park…not a bad start to our first hanami experience.
Of course, the cherry blossoms decided to hit peak during the early part of the week when Jimmy and I normally have to work. Luckily, we were living within walking distance of one of the biggest party hanami spots in Tokyo – Ueno Park. We worked hard for a few hours in the morning and then were able to join in on a “happy hour” hanami. The main walkway of Ueno park is lined with cherry blossoms, so obviously, this is THE spot for hanami.
Those spots were reserved in advance with large groups set up to party. We were happy to find an open spot around the backside of the park that also had a bunch of cherry blossom trees and hanami partiers.
For this hanami, we came prepared with our own Japanese treats like green tea flavored chips and onigiri (a type of portable sushi). We also upped the ante with a special sakura wine.
We ended the evening with a stroll through another park along the Sumida river. The park was small and quiet but also quite scenic with the trees along the river being lit up at night.
Shinjuku-gyoen is considered the best place to view the cherry blossoms in Tokyo with the largest number of trees and variety of species. The range of color and shape of the cherry blossom trees was truly impressive. We saw…
hot pink tall trees
low hanging cherry blossoms with large, pillowy, light pink blossoms
white blossoms
and every other shade of pink
No alcohol is allowed in the park, so this becomes the family and couples hanami spot. We went with a full lunch spread this time for the true hanami experience. We found a great spot right next to a cherry blossom tree with some low hanging branches. Relaxing under the cherry blossoms with the sun shining down on our faces and good food in our bellies, we were digging this whole hanami thing.
We loved watching the little kids run around while moms tried to get the best shot of their babies with the cherry blossoms.
After our hanami, we walked around the park to admire the prettiest trees and loveliest views.
We enjoyed soaking in the hanami culture as everybody in Tokyo from young to old was out celebrating the season in their own way.
Our last cherry blossom viewing spot in Tokyo was Chidoriguchi Moat at the Imperial Palace. The moat and walkway are lined with cherry blossom trees creating a stunning landscape. Although not a great place for hanami because of the crowded walkway and no green space, we thought this was the most picturesque of all the Tokyo cherry blossom spots. Here are a few of our favorites from our first visit:
In the evening, the Chidoriguchi Moat has a special illumination of the cherry blossoms creating an even more spectacular scene.
A few days after the peak in Tokyo, Kyoto hit peak cherry blossom time too. The weather was not cooperating with rain in the forecast for most days, and we knew that the peak bloom may last just a handful of days. Finally, there looked to be about a 36hr break in the rain, so we jumped on one of the super-fast Shinkansen trains to be able to get a glimpse of the city that is considered quite possibly the best of all of Japan for cherry blossoms.
Kyoto is the cultural center of Japan as it was the former Imperial capital for more than one thousand years and has many ancient temples and shrines. This gives Kyoto a very different feel from Tokyo. Ironically, before hitting all the iconic temples, we went to the most popular hanami party spot in Kyoto for lunch, Myanomu Park. We hadn’t brought our own food this time because we had read that there were food vendors. We were pumped to find, not only a wide array of food stands, but also pop-up restaurants with cute little Japanese-style tables under a garden of cherry blossom trees. We were lucky to get one of the last tables to enjoy some sake, tempura udon, and cherry blossom and green tea rice dumplings.
Cherry blossom petals were falling all around us as the breeze swept through the branches. I’m taking it as a sign of good luck that one petal even made it into the narrow opening of my sake bottle. Just like in the Tokyo parks, we loved seeing such diverse groups out enjoying the lovely day:
Families with cute babies
Large groups of friends
Beautiful women in traditional attire
After lunch, we wandered around the park for some more amazing cherry blossom scenery including the popular weeping cherry blossom tree in the center of the park.
Oh, and my to-go drink wasn’t a sakura beverage but a sangria made with one of my other favorite Japanese liqueurs, ume (plum).
After the park, we took a stroll down a famous trail along a canal known as the Pathway of Philosophy.
We even saw dogs posing to get their best shot with the cherry blossoms.
Just like Tokyo, nighttime illumination of the cherry blossoms makes for some otherworldly views. One temple in particular, Kiyomizu-dera, has a sprawling complex with a three-tiered pagoda and other structures along the mountainside.
The lighting was so tricky that the pictures really don’t do it justice, but this just might have been my favorite of the cherry blossom experiences.
In particular, I could not take my eyes off the reflection of the cherry blossoms in one of the ponds. The image was so clear that I thought I would be able to jump right into the pond and be transported to a new realm.
Everywhere we turned in Kyoto was a new photo op. We spent a whole second day wandering various paths and temple grounds in search of the most beautiful cherry blossom viewing spots in town.
Along the Kawagawa river
Surrounding the pond at Ryoan-ji temple
Overlooking another one of our favorite temples, the “golden pavilion” Kinkaku-ji
And at Ninna-ji temple
The cold, rainy weather for our first 4 weeks in Japan had us really worried that we would not have a good cherry blossom experience, but although it still was chillier than I would have liked, in the end, the cherry blossoms and the hanami experience in both Tokyo and Kyoto far exceeded our expectations.
To top off our Japanese cherry blossom adventures, the weather finally cooperated for a dry, warm, and sunny day for us to go for a hike to see the mountains covered in cherry blossoms. We went to Kobo Mountain, which is about an hour train ride outside of Tokyo. The hike up to the park at the peak of Kobo mountain was not too long or strenuous with a few cherry blossoms along the way.
At the park, we found a picnic table with a great view of the cherry blossoms and another mountain peak in the distance.
At this point, we were masters of the hanami picnic. Check out this spread:
I can’t believe I waited until our last hanami to try a favorite sandwich/quick lunch of the Japanese, the Tonkatsu sandwich. Panko-crusted pork loin surrounded by fluffy, white, no-crust bread. SO GOOD!!
And finally…I didn’t have to wear a jacket!
From the park, the trail was relatively flat as it followed the ridge of the mountain and was lined with cherry blossom trees and lanterns for a large section.
The hike at Kobo mountain was a great escape from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo and rounded out our trio of hanami experiences – the big city, the cultural center, and the countryside.
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